Tungnath, Uttarakhand

The Tungnath trek to the highest Shiva temple in the world is truly fascinating. When I was exploring Uttarakhand during my 2 Dham Yatra, which included a trip to Kedarnath and Badrinath, Tungnath happened to be on the way to Badrinath. Despite being tired from a 46-kilometer trek over the past two days, I decided to take on this additional 8-kilometer trek.

After completing the Kedarnath trek, my friends and I were still brimming with excitement. We made a stopover in Ukhimath after traveling from Sonprayag to get some much-needed rest. The Tungnath trek commences from Chopta, often referred to as the Switzerland of India due to its stunning mountain landscapes and rich flora and fauna.

Early in the morning, we made our way from Ukhimath to Chopta and began the trek. Although it was a relatively short 8-kilometer trek, we were wary of altitude sickness and had camphor to help with that. The trail was well-maintained, with a concrete and stone path that had been created. There was also an option for mule service, but being a hardcore trekker, I chose to hike on my own. As we ventured further, the scenery became increasingly breathtaking. Everywhere we looked, there were lush green meadows, and the clouds and fog added to the cinematic atmosphere. What made it even more special were the adorable mountain dogs with thick, furry coats. They were incredibly friendly and warm, despite the chilly weather. These mountain dogs were unlike any other.

I found myself sitting for hours, captivated by the company of these dogs, even though I knew I should start my ascent to the summit. Eventually, I mustered the resolve to continue my hike, promising myself I'd return to spend more time with the dogs on my way back. The path was nothing short of heavenly, with stunning views at every turn. The incline gradually increased, and only one of my friends and I were able to maintain a steady pace. Unfortunately, one of our friends had to give up due to exhaustion, but I managed to convince him to continue. I told him that this was a once-in-a-lifetime trek to the highest Shiva temple, and he wouldn't get another chance like this.

On the way, we took breaks to snack and refuel with Maggi and water. Our group had split up, with the two of us forging ahead while the others lagged behind. We decided to reach the top quickly and wait for them there. While resting at a certain point, the clouds unexpectedly cleared, and to our amazement, the Himalayan mountains appeared before us at eye level. The feeling was incredible, knowing that we were at such a high altitude.

We were just 0.5 kilometers away from the Tungnath temple at that point, and the final stretch involved climbing steps. As we reached Tungnath, we surprisingly didn't experience any altitude sickness. We immediately removed our shoes and joined the queue to enter the temple. Inside, the temple had a pure, tranquil atmosphere with the soothing scent of sandalwood. I carefully poured water for the abhishek (a ritual bathing of the deity), feeling calm and peaceful. The Tungnath temple is believed to house the heart of Lord Shiva and is one of the Panch Kedar temples.

The legend goes that when the Pandavas came to seek Lord Shiva's forgiveness and purification, he disguised himself as a cow to avoid them. Bhima, one of the Pandavas, recognized Shiva and tugged at the cow's tail, revealing his true form. Shiva was so pleased with Bhima's devotion that he divided his form into five parts, creating the Panch Kedar. Tungnath is where Shiva's heart is said to have fallen. After our visit to the temple, we sat at the edge of a cliff to meditate, took pictures, and enjoyed the peaceful surroundings. Although there was an additional 1-kilometer trek to the Chandrashila peak from Tungnath, we decided not to go due to the cloud cover. I was eager to explore it, but sometimes nature has its own plans.

During winter, the view from Chandrashila is said to be even more breathtaking due to the absence of clouds and the clear blue sky. However, the temple remains closed during the winter months, up to six months at a time, making it inaccessible. Our other friends eventually arrived, completing the trek despite experiencing altitude sickness. I couldn't have been happier to share this incredible journey with them.